“Always be a work in progress” – Emily Lillian
It is safe to say that I am continuously learning new things with each and every project that I take on. I actually like to re-visit old projects and improve them by using the new techniques and tools that I have learned about. It has been said that there will always be room for improvement, and I intend to embrace that fact. The most recent of my project re-do’s is a wooden farmhouse table, which I originally tackled in a post titled Build Your Own Farmhouse Coffee Table.
I loved the farmhouse table that I had originally built, simply because I had built it with my own two hands. However, I knew I could build it better and I mentioned that in Kreg Jig: A Tool Review. My main issue was the visible hardware. So this second time around I made sure to hide all the screws that was holding my table together. The result is a farmhouse table that looks professionally built and I love the way that it turned out.
Here is what I needed ( click the links to buy your own supplies! ) :
- (4) 17″ lengths of 4″ x 4″ wood – Legs
- (2) 15-3/4″ lengths of 1″ x 4″ wood – Short Side Aprons
- (2) 39-3/4″ lengths of 1″ x 4″ wood – Long Side Aprons
- (3) 19″ lengths of 1″ x 4″ wood – Underside Bracing
- (4) 4′ lengths of 1″ x 6″ Wood – Table Top
- Kreg Jig
- 1″ Screws
- 1-1/4″ Screws
- 2″ Screws
- White Paint
- Espresso Wood Stain
Step One: Measure It Out!
My first step was to determine the size of the table that I was going to build. The height of my previous one was perfect, but I did feel that it was too small in length and width. So to figure out the right size, I taped it out on the floor ( a useful trick that I picked up from my days designing in theatre ). Using some painters tape ( note: typically I would use paper tape, but recently ran out ) and a measuring tape, I created a rectangle on the floor at the size I was thinking, 2′ x 4′. I played around with different sizes for a bit before deciding that 2′ x 4′ would be perfect for my patio.
Step Two: Some Perfect Legs!
Still using the same height as my previous table, 18″, and keeping in mind the thickness of the wood I intended to use for the top, 1″, I determined that my legs needed to be 17″ tall. I cut four 17″ legs out of my 4″ x 4″ wood using my Craftsman saw. And placed them all in the corners of the rectangle I had taped onto the floor. My reason for doing this was that I knew I wanted my table top to be exactly 2′ x 4′, but I also wanted it to over hang slightly over the legs and apron of the table. To determine that overhang, I simply relied on the thickness of the tape I used on the floor.
Step Three: Put An Apron On!
Now that my legs were standing tall right where I needed them, I measured the distance between them to determine the length of the long side aprons as well as the short side aprons. Those lengths were 15 – 3/4″ and 39 – 3/4″. I cut two of each length from my 1″ x 4″ wood. Then it was time to break out my trusty Kreg Jig. I secured the apron to the legs with two Kreg Jig screws at each point where the apron and legs met. The best way to go about this is to lay the legs down and place the apron on a spacer ( I just used some scrap wood ) so that the apron is matching all the way around the table. Once that was done, the hold on the wood was extremely strong and the table was starting to come together.
Step Four: Started With The Base, Now We’re Here!
Time to build the top for this table. As I mentioned before, I wanted the top to be exactly 2′ x 4′, but I knew that wasn’t going to happen perfectly. Let me explain why. The top was to be made up of 4′ lengths of 1″ x 6″ wood. However, if you know wood you know that 1″ x 6″ actually ends up being closer to 3/4″ x 5 – 1/2″. I know it is confusing, but basically I could not simply put four pieces of 6″ wide wood together to get the perfect 24″ that I wanted. Instead I also added a 4′ length of 1″ x 4″ wood right down the middle of the table top to get closer to the width that I wanted.
Then to secure the table top together, I figured out which side of each piece of wood I wanted to be shown on top and laid them all top down. Taking my 19″ lengths of 1″ x 4″ wood I found center and screwed them into each piece of the table top with 1-1/4″ screws.
Step Five: Flip It Over!
The next step is to secure the table top to the base. Leaving the table top on the floor face down, I flipped the base upside down on top of it. I centered the base onto the top and got right to securing it. Using my Kreg Jig I screwed in a number of screws all the way around to insure that this beauty will stay together. Then I flipped my table over.
Step Six: Finishing Touches!
I sanded down the entire top of the table to insure it was nice and smooth. I even used my sander to round out the edges a bit. Next, I painted my base white and stained my top Espresso, giving my newly built table that great farmhouse table look.
A DIY Farmhouse Table To Die For
I have to admit that I love this new table about 1000 times more than my previous table, and the hidden hardware had almost everything to do with it! Like I said before, the look of the table turned out quite professional.